Brewers' dozen

So many sakes. So little time.

There are over 1,700 sake breweries in Japan, and the variety of styles and tastes they produce seems always to be expanding.Recent years have given us sake made for specific food pairings,and even sparkling brews. Whether perusing a menu or staring at the shelves in a shop, the choice can be overwhelming.To make sense of it all, we consulted some of Japan's most knowl-edgeable restaurateurs and sake shop owners-professionals who regularly deal with the brewers themselves.With their expert advice, we offer the selection on the following pages.